Early quilt blocks were sometimes pieced on fabric foundations, so the idea of paper piecing (also known as foundation piecing) isn't much of a leap. What this technique does is allow the quilter to work with very fine small pieces of fabric and intricate elements of design. You get very accurate blocks, and this technique is perfect if you want to make miniature quilts, like for a doll house. This technique can also be used with complex larger patterns for speed and accuracy.

Paper piecing can be tricky because you are working from the back of a design. The block will be created on the unprinted, or back, of the paper. Most quilters start with making multiple paper-pieced traditional blocks. If you are making copies of blocks, be sure to use the same photocopier. Each time a pattern is reproduced, the copier reduces it slightly. If you make multiple copies on different machines or from already-copied patterns, you run the risk of having different sizes to finished blocks, and this will make it more difficult to create a finished top.

If you want to trace your own blocks, you can do it on newsprint, muslin, freezer paper, examining table paper (from the doctor's office) or tracing paper. Muslin gives you another added layer of fabric to sew through, so this might not be your first choice. Tracing paper allows you to see through the design, very helpful when you are checking for accuracy.

Look for patterns that give you very specific instructions and have blocks numbered. The numbering is important so you have a plan for adding fabrics. Keep in mind you will be piecing small sections into larger sections, much like when you piece a traditional quilt block. You will work with the pattern facing you, and the fabric, wrong side against the paper, underneath. One of the biggest problems is making sure the fabric is large enough so that when you sew and fold over, the fabric covers the sewing line of the next piece.

Also keep in mind your design will be reversed when you are done. Use a large needle and a small stitch. A large needle will make good perforations in the paper, and a small stitch will allow for lots of perforations, making it easier at the end to remove the paper.

Finger pressing is critical. You will not want to take your iron to the cloth and paper. As you fold over sewn pieces, finger press them to lay flat. Do not take out any small pieces of paper until you are completely finished with the block. Keep in mind you should trim fabric after each sewing so that you don't have a lot of extra bulk to the finish block. You can fold back the foundation block, and trim away excess fabric, being careful not to trim the fabric so it won't cover the next stitching line.

After your first piece is sewn and finger-pressed, add piece two in the order suggested on each block. Line up the fabric along the sewing line, wrong side facing the first fabric. Continue with this process until your block is complete. Make a test block first to develop the rhythm of piecing; it is frustrating initially until you get the sense of how the fabric pieces work with the foundation block.

At this point some quilters will remove all the paper. A good recommendation is to sew a stay-stitching line along the outermost border of the block. This helps keep the block square until you sew it to another. Some quilters will wait until large sections of blocks are put together before removing the paper. You will find the method that works best for you.

Removing paper from the backs of blocks is a great activity for watching television. You just need a small sack for pieces, tweezers, and patience.

Related : More On Quilt Types - English Paper Piecing